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1 row of loops
Текстиль: петельный ряд -
2 row
ряд; петельный ряд || pl число пучков ворса на единицу площади ковра; плотность ворса ковра @row of loops петельный ряд @row of needles игольный ряд @row of stitches петельный ряд @frame needle row игольный ряд, фонтура, игольница (вязальной машины) @ -
3 row
ряд; петельный ряд || pl число пучков ворса на единицу площади ковра; плотность ворса ковра @row of loops петельный ряд @row of needles игольный ряд @row of stitches петельный ряд @frame needle row игольный ряд, фонтура, игольница (вязальной машины) @ -
4 Weft Knit
A knitted texture capable of being formed from a single thread forming a succession of loops horizontally, each successive horizontal row of loops being drawn through the previous row of loops one stitch at a time. The simplest kind of weft-knit fabric is the plain knitting done by hand needles in the home. -
5 петельный ряд
Textile: course, row, row of loops, row of stitches -
6 Pelerine Stitches
These stitches are produced by meshing the upper and lower components of a single loop together at the next course. Modifications of these stitches produce raised designs and places and eyelet holes. By meshing the lower components of the first row of loops to a subsequent row a hem or welt is produced on a plain fabric. -
7 net course
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8 setting-up course
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9 Bouchon, Basile
SUBJECT AREA: Textiles[br]fl. c.1725 Lyon, France[br]French pioneer in automatic pattern selection for weaving.[br]In the earliest draw looms, the pattern to be woven was selected by means of loops of string that were loosely tied round the appropriate leashes, which had to be lifted to make that pick of the pattern by raising the appropriate warp threads. In Isfahan, Persia, looms were seen in the 1970s where a boy sat in the top of the loom. Before the weaver could weave the next pick, the boy selected the appropriate loop of string, pulled out those leashes which were tied in it and lifted them up by means of a forked stick. The weaver below him held up these leashes by a pair of wooden sticks and sent the shuttle through that shed while the boy was sorting out the next loop of string with its leashes. When the pick had been completed, the first loop was dropped further down the leashes and, presumably, when the whole sequence of that pattern was finished, all the loops had be pushed up the leashes to the top of the loom again.Models in the Conservatoire National des Arts et Métiers, Paris, show that in 1725 Bouchon, a worker in Lyon, dispensed with the loops of string and selected the appropriate leashes by employing a band of pierced paper pressed against a row of horizontal wires by the drawboy using a hand-bar so as to push forward those which happened to lie opposite the blank spaces. These connected with loops at the lower extremity of vertical wires linked to the leashes at the top of the loom. The vertical wires could be pulled down by a comb-like rack beside the drawboy at the side of the loom in order to pull up the appropriate leashes to make the next shed. Bouchon seems to have had only one row of needles or wires, which must have limited the width of the patterns. This is an early form of mechanical memory, used in computers much later. The apparatus was improved subsequently by Falcon and Jacquard.[br]Further ReadingA.Barlow, 1878, The History and Principles of Weaving by Hand and by Power, London (a brief description of Bouchon's apparatus).M.Daumas (ed.), 1968, Histoire générale des techniques Vol. III: L'Expansion dumachinisme, Paris (a description of this apparatus, with a diagram). Conservatoire National des Arts et Métiers, 1942, Catalogue du musée, section T, industries textiles, teintures et apprêts, Paris (another brief description; a model can be seen in this museum).C.Singer, (ed.), 1957, A History of Technology, Vol. III, Oxford: Clarendon Press (provides an illustration of Bouchon's apparatus).RLH -
10 bola
f.1 ball (esfera).bola de alcanfor mothballbola de billar billiard ballbola de cristal crystal ballbola del mundo globebola de naftalina mothballbola de nieve snowball2 fib (informal) (mentira).contar bolas to fib, to tell fibs3 rumor (informal).corre la bola por ahí de que te has echado novio they say you've got yourself a boyfriend4 shoe polish. ( Latin American Spanish)5 shoeblacking, shoe polish, shoe cream.6 scoop of ice cream.7 polishing, shoe polishing.8 tall story, cock-and-bull story, snow job.9 lie, porky, porky pie.* * *1 (gen) ball2 familiar fib, lie\bola de nieve snowballbola de cristal crystal ball* * *noun f.1) ball2) lie, fib* * *SF1) (=cuerpo esférico) ball; [de helado] scoop; (=canica) marblebola de fuego — (Mil) fireball; (Meteo) ball lightning
pie 2), queso 1)bola de tempestad, bola de tormenta — storm signal
2) (Dep) ball; [de petanca] boule- andar como bola huacha- dar bolase lo he dicho mil veces pero no me da bola — I've told him a thousand times but he doesn't take any notice o a blind bit of notice
¡dale bola! — what, again!
- parar bolasno me paró bolas — he didn't take any notice, he didn't pay attention
- pasar la bolabola de billar — billiard ball, snooker ball
bola de partido — Esp (Tenis) match ball
bola de set — Esp (Tenis) set point
3) [en lana, algodón] bobblehacerse bolas — [jersey, abrigo] to get bobbly; Méx * [persona] to get o.s. tied up in knots
5) ** (=cabeza) nut *, noggin (EEUU) **- en bolasaquí todo el mundo va o está en bolas — everyone goes round naked o in the nude here
- hasta las bolasme tiene hasta las bolas con sus tonterías — I'm pissed off with his fooling around ***, I've had it up to here with his fooling around *
- pillar a algn en bolas7) * (=mentira) fib¡vaya bola que nos metiste! — what a fib you told us!
¡qué bola más grande! — what a whopper! *
¿no te habrás tragado esa bola? — you didn't swallow that one, did you? *, you didn't fall for it, did you? *
8) (=rumor)¿quién ha corrido la bola de que se van a vivir al extranjero? — who's been spreading the word that they're going to move abroad?
9) Méx10) (Naipes) (grand) slam11) (Náut) signal (with discs)12) (Tip) golf ball13) (Mec) ball bearing* * *1)a) ( cuerpo redondo) ball; ( de helado) scoopb) (Dep) ball; ( de petanca) boule; ( canica) (Col, Per) marbleparar or poner bolas — (Col fam) to pay attention, listen up (AmE colloq)
tener la cabeza como una bola de billar — to be as bald as a cue ball (AmE) o (BrE) as bald as a coot (colloq)
c) bolas femenino plural (fam: en algunas regiones vulg) ( testículos) balls (pl) (colloq or vulg)estar en bolas — (fam o vulg) to be stark naked (colloq)
estar hasta las bolas — (vulg) to be pissed off (sl)
hacerse bolas con algo — (Méx) to get in a mess over something
pillar a alguien en bolas — (fam o vulg) to catch somebody with their pants (AmE) o (BrE) trousers down (colloq)
d) (fam) ( músculo - del brazo) biceps; (- de la pantorrilla) calf musclesacar bola — (Esp) to flex one's muscles
2) (fam) ( mentira) lie, fib (colloq)contar/decir bolas — to fib (colloq), to tell fibs (colloq)
se tragó la bola! — she swallowed it! (colloq)
3) (Andes, RPl fam) ( atención)4) (Méx fam) ( montón)una bola de — loads of (colloq)
5) (Méx) revolution, uprising ( esp the Mexican Revolution)armarse la bola — (Méx)
se armó la bola — all hell broke loose (colloq)
* * *= fib, fibbing, ball.Ex. Democracy's most acute failures tend to result from power brokers who tell big fibs about the distribution of power.Ex. When it comes to fibbing, women are far ahead of their male counterparts, a new survey has revealed.Ex. People are positively delighted to find that there are motion picture loops on how to throw a ball properly, art slides, and all this sort of thing.----* bañarse en bolas = skinny dip.* bola de alcanfor = mothball, moth crystal, camphor ball.* bola de barro = mudpie.* bola de cristal = crystal ball.* bola de cristal con nieve dentro = snow globe.* bola de hacer punto = knitting yarn.* bola de molienda = grinding ball.* bola de naftalina = mothball, moth crystal, camphor ball.* bola para el control del cursor en pantalla = trackball.* decir bolas = fib.* echar la bola a rodar = get + the ball rolling, set + the ball rolling, start + the ball rolling.* efecto bola de nieve = snowball effect.* en bolas = stark naked, in the nod, in the buff.* hacer una bola con Algo = ball + Nombre + up.* mantener la bola rodando = keep + the ball rolling.* mirar la bola de cristal = gaze into + crystal ball.* parada de bola = fielding.* * *1)a) ( cuerpo redondo) ball; ( de helado) scoopb) (Dep) ball; ( de petanca) boule; ( canica) (Col, Per) marbleparar or poner bolas — (Col fam) to pay attention, listen up (AmE colloq)
tener la cabeza como una bola de billar — to be as bald as a cue ball (AmE) o (BrE) as bald as a coot (colloq)
c) bolas femenino plural (fam: en algunas regiones vulg) ( testículos) balls (pl) (colloq or vulg)estar en bolas — (fam o vulg) to be stark naked (colloq)
estar hasta las bolas — (vulg) to be pissed off (sl)
hacerse bolas con algo — (Méx) to get in a mess over something
pillar a alguien en bolas — (fam o vulg) to catch somebody with their pants (AmE) o (BrE) trousers down (colloq)
d) (fam) ( músculo - del brazo) biceps; (- de la pantorrilla) calf musclesacar bola — (Esp) to flex one's muscles
2) (fam) ( mentira) lie, fib (colloq)contar/decir bolas — to fib (colloq), to tell fibs (colloq)
se tragó la bola! — she swallowed it! (colloq)
3) (Andes, RPl fam) ( atención)4) (Méx fam) ( montón)una bola de — loads of (colloq)
5) (Méx) revolution, uprising ( esp the Mexican Revolution)armarse la bola — (Méx)
se armó la bola — all hell broke loose (colloq)
* * *= fib, fibbing, ball.Ex: Democracy's most acute failures tend to result from power brokers who tell big fibs about the distribution of power.
Ex: When it comes to fibbing, women are far ahead of their male counterparts, a new survey has revealed.Ex: People are positively delighted to find that there are motion picture loops on how to throw a ball properly, art slides, and all this sort of thing.* bañarse en bolas = skinny dip.* bola de alcanfor = mothball, moth crystal, camphor ball.* bola de barro = mudpie.* bola de cristal = crystal ball.* bola de cristal con nieve dentro = snow globe.* bola de hacer punto = knitting yarn.* bola de molienda = grinding ball.* bola de naftalina = mothball, moth crystal, camphor ball.* bola para el control del cursor en pantalla = trackball.* decir bolas = fib.* echar la bola a rodar = get + the ball rolling, set + the ball rolling, start + the ball rolling.* efecto bola de nieve = snowball effect.* en bolas = stark naked, in the nod, in the buff.* hacer una bola con Algo = ball + Nombre + up.* mantener la bola rodando = keep + the ball rolling.* mirar la bola de cristal = gaze into + crystal ball.* parada de bola = fielding.* * *A1 (cuerpo redondo) ball; (de helado) scoopse hacen bolas con la masa form the dough into ballsel gato estaba hecho una bolita en el sofá the cat was curled up (in a little ball) on the sofase me hizo una bola en el estómago I got a knot in my stomachtengo una bola en el estómago de haber comido tan rápido I ate too fast, my stomach feels heavyte vas a poner como una bola you're going to get very fatalgunos tejidos se hacen bolas some materials get o go bobblymáquina de escribir de bola golf ball typewriterandar como bola huacha ( Chi fam): ando como bola huacha I'm at a loss, I don't know what to do with myselfcomo bola sin manija ( RPl fam): me tiene como bola sin manija he has me running about from pillar to postdesde que se mudaron los amigos anda como bola sin manija since his friends moved away he's been at a complete loss o he's been wandering around like a lost soul o he hasn't known what to do with himselfecharse la bolita ( Méx); to pass the buckpare bolas, que le estoy hablando pay attention when I'm talking to youle advertí, pero no me puso bolas I warned him, but he didn't take the slightest notice ( colloq)(pelado) como una bola de billar ( RPl); as bald as a coot ( colloq), bald as a cue ball ( AmE) o ( BrE) billiard balltener la cabeza como una bola de billar to be as bald as a coot ( colloq), to be as bald as a cue ball ( AmE) o ( BrE) billiard ballme da por las bolas que me empujen it really gets on my nerves o up my nose when people push me ( colloq), it really pisses me off when people push me (sl)hacerse bolas con algo ( Méx); to get in a mess over sthpillar a algn en bolas to catch sb on the hop ( colloq), to catch sb with their pants ( AmE) o ( BrE) trousers down ( colloq)sacar bola to flex one's musclesCompuestos:crystal ballsnowballmatch pointset pointme metió una bola he told me a fibcorre la bola de que … (the) word is that …, word has it that …, it's going round that …C(Andes, RPI fam) (atención): se lo dije pero él no me dio bola or pero él, ni bola I told him, but he didn't take the slightest bit o ( BrE) a blind bit of notice ( colloq)Duna bola de libros stacks o loads of books ( colloq)EF ( Méx) revolution, uprising ( esp the Mexican Revolution)armarse la bola ( Méx): cuando marcaron el penalty se armó la bola when they scored from the penalty all hell broke loose ( colloq)¿por qué se armó la bola? — porque no había boletos what was all the fuss about? — there were no tickets left ( colloq)* * *
bola sustantivo femenino
1 ( cuerpo redondo) ball;
( de helado) scoop;
(Dep) ball;
( de petanca) boule;
( canica) (Col, Per) marble;
bola de nieve snowball;
bola de partido/de set match/set point
2◊ bolas sustantivo femenino plural (fam: en algunas regiones vulg) ( testículos) balls (pl) (colloq or vulg);
estar en bolas (fam or vulg) to be stark naked (colloq);
hacerse bolas con algo (Méx) to get in a mess over sth
3 (fam) ( mentira) lie, fib (colloq);
contar/decir bolas to fib (colloq), to tell fibs (colloq)
4 (Méx fam) ( montón):◊ una bola de loads of (colloq)
bola sustantivo femenino
1 ball
(canica) marble
2 fam (mentira) fib
♦ Locuciones: correr la bola, to spread a rumour
(desprevenido) without warning
no dar pie con bola, to be unable to do anything right
vulgar en bolas, (desnudo) naked
' bola' also found in these entries:
Spanish:
billar
- borla
- terráquea
- terráqueo
- efecto
- granizo
- hueco
- ratón
English:
ball
- bowl
- crystal ball
- dip
- dumpling
- mothball
- pellet
- scoop
- snowball
- crumple
- crystal
- fib
- into
- putt
- roll-on
- track
* * *bola nf1. [esfera] ball;[de helado] scoop;tengo una bola en el estómago my stomach feels bloated;si sigues comiendo pasteles te pondrás como una bola if you carry on eating cakes, you'll get fat;dejar rodar la bola to let it ridebola de alcanfor mothball;bola de cristal crystal ball;bola de fuego fireball;bola del mundo globe;bola de naftalina mothball;bola de nieve snowball;Figconvertirse en una bola de nieve to snowball2. [pelota] ball;[canica] marble; Esp Famno tocar o [m5]rascar bola: se pasó el partido entero sin tocar o [m5] rascar bola he didn't do a single thing in the whole match;no dio pie con bola he didn't do o get a thing rightbola de billar billiard ball;bola de break [en tenis] break point;Ven bolas criollas bowls [singular];bola de juego [en tenis] game point;bola jugadora [en billar] cue ball;bola de partido [en tenis] match point;bola de set [en tenis] set pointcontar bolas to fib, to tell fibs;me intentó meter una bola she tried to tell me a fib;esa bola no me la trago I'm not going to fall for that one4. Fam [rumor]corre la bola por ahí de que te has echado novio they say you've got yourself a boyfriend;¡corre la bola!, nos van a poner un examen mañana they're going to give us an exam tomorrow, pass it on!Ven Famecharle bolas: tienes que echarle bolas al asunto you really need to put some oomph o guts into it;Fampillar a alguien en bolas [sin nada, desprevenido] to catch sb out;¡me has pillado en bolas!, ¡no tengo ni idea! you've got me there, I haven't a clue!;el profesor nos pilló en bolas the teacher caught us unprepared;RP muy Fam8. Am [betún] shoe polishen bola [en grupo] in a crowd, as a group13. FamEspa mi/tu/su bola: nosotros trabajando y él, a su bola we were working and there he was, just doing his own thing;Bol, RPandar como bola sin manija to wander around;Vende bola que sí sure, you bet your life;Méx Méxhacerse bolas to get muddled up;RP RPdar bola a alguien to pay attention to sb;nadie le da bola al nuevo compañero nobody takes any notice of our new colleague;nunca le dio bola a su hijo she never showed any interest in her son;Andes, Venparar bola a alguien to pay attention to sb;RPtener bolas [ser valiente] to have guts;[ser lento] to be slow o thick* * *f1 ball;no dar pie con bola get everything wrong;dejar que ruede la bola fig let things take their course2 TÉC ball bearing3 de helado scoop4 fam ( mentira) fib fam5:en bolas fam stark naked* * *bola nf1) : ballbola de nieve: snowballuna bola de rateros: a bunch of thieves* * *bola n1. (esfera) ball2. (mentira) lie -
11 graph
1) граф2) график || строить график3) диаграмма || чертить диаграмму•- alternating composition graph - arbitrarily transversable graph - derived graph - doubly connected graph - doubly transitive graph - fully connected graph - locally countable graph - locally finite graph - locally restricted graph - log-log graph - partially labeled graph - partially orderable graph - progressively finite graph - regressively finite graph - strictly weak graph - strongly orientable graph - strongly regular graph - strongly rigid graph - strongly singular graph - strongly smooth graph - totally inductive graph - triangleless graph - triply transitive graph - uniquely intersectable graph - uniquely representable graph - weakly disconnected graph -
12 Pearl Knitting
The knit goods trade term for those fabrics having all loops of one row lying in one direction and in the next row in the opposite direction. -
13 space
1) интервал, промежуток2) пробел || оставлять пробелы3) область; площадь4) пространство || пространственный5) космос, космическое пространство6) полость7) расстояние•- absolutely compact space - absolutely embedded space - absolutely thick space - algebraically parallel space - almost complex space - almost expandable space - almost isomorphic space - almost metric space - almost nonsingular space - almost paracompact space - almost pretopological space - analytically ramified covering space - arcwise connected space - centrally harmonic space - compactly ordered space - completely continuous space - completely degenerate space - completely disconnected space - completely harmonic space - completely metric space - completely normal space - completely reducible space - completely regular space - completely reticulated space - completely separable space - completely separated space - completely symmetric space - completely uniformizable space - constant curvature space - continuous sample space - continuously ordered space - contractible in itself space - countably compactifiable space - countably dimensional space - countably generated space - countably infinite space - countably metacompact space - countably multinormed space - countably normed space - countably paracompact space - countably refinable space - countably subcompact space - finitely productive space - finitely sheeted space - finitely triangulated space - fully normal space - general metrizable space - general topological space - global analytic space - globally symmetric space - hereditarily normal space - hereditarily paracompact space - hereditarily separable space - hereditarily symmetric space - holomorphic tangent space - holomorphically complete space - holomorphically convex space - homotopy associative space - iterated loop space - linearly connected space - linearly ordered space - linearly topologized space - load space - locally bounded space - locally closed space - locally compact space - locally complete space - locally connected space - locally contractible space - locally convex space - locally directed space - locally fine space - locally holomorphic space - locally homogeneous space - locally hyperbolic space - locally linear space - locally metrizable space - locally ringed space - locally separable space - locally simply connected space - locally solid space - locally spherical space - locally star-shaped space - locally symmetric space - locally timelike space - locally triangulable space - monotonically normal space - naturally isomorphic space - naturally ordered space - naturally reductive space - nearly paracompact space - negative metric space - normally separated space - not simply connected space - nowhere connected space - null space of linear transformation - n-way projective space - perfectly normal space - perfectly regular space - perfectly screenable space - perfectly separable space - peripherically bicompact space - peripherically compact space - pointwise paracompact space - projectively metric space - quaternion hyperbolic space - quaternion projective space - quaternion vector space - regularly ordered space - relatively discrete space - relatively strong space - sequentially closed space - sequentially compact space - sequentially complete space - sequentially quasicomplete space - sequentially separable space - simply ordered space - simply partitionable space - space of affine connectedness - space of complex homomorphisms - space of continuous functions - space of finite measure - space of linear interpolation - space of right cosets - space of scalar curvature - strongly bounded space - strongly closed space - strongly compact space - strongly complete space - strongly irreducible space - strongly normal space - strongly normed space - strongly paracompact space - strongly pseudocompact space - strongly pseudometrizable space - strongly rigid space - strongly screenable space - structural space - structure space - topologically complete space - totally disconnected space - totally geodesic space - totally imperfect space - totally normal space - totally orderable space - totally ordered space - water jacket space - weakly closed space - weakly compact space - weakly complete space - weakly covering space - weakly dense space - weakly favorable space - weakly n-dimensional space - weakly paracompact space - weakly regular space - weakly separable space - weakly symmetric spaceto space out — полигр. набирать вразрядку
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14 Carpets
The principal types are Axminster, Brussels and Wilton, and brief particulars of each are given below. A more detailed description is given under each name. Axminster is a cut fabric made any width and with any number of colours. It is not produced on a jacquard, therefore the pile does not show on the back. The design is developed by a series of tufts which are bound into the fabric, every tuft is on the surface and only the foundation cloth is seen at the back. There are two principal varieties of these carpets, the Chenille Axminster and the Machine tufted Axminster. The Chenille type is made by two distinct operations, that of manufacturing the chenille weft and that of weaving the carpet with this weft. The " fur or chenille is first woven on an ordinary loom (see chenille) and when cut into the strips is used as weft with a linen, jute or folded cotton warp. The chenille is made preferably with the leno way of shedding in order to bind the wool yarn more firmly. All the figuring weft is on the surface and not embedded in the fabric. The chenille weft is often inserted by hand, but several mechanical methods for doing the work are now in use. From three to six tufts per inch are usual. The chenille Axminster Carpet is also known as the Patent Axminster carpet. The machine-tufted type or Royal Axminster is also formed from pile tufts previously prepared and afterwards woven in the ground warp and bound into the fabric with a binding weft. The tufts may be inserted by hand and the pile is all on the surface of the fabric. This pile is a warp product, whereas for the chenille variety it is weft. Axminster carpets are a product of skill and patience and any number of colours can be used. There are several varieties of machine-made axminster carpets. Wilton is a cut pile fabric woven 27-in. wide from not more than six colours, the yarns are fine counts and design produced by jacquards. Brussels is made almost in the same way as a Wilton, but the pile is not cut and this shows as loops on the face. The yarn is much coarser than for Wiltons. Kidderminster - A carpet made from two or more plain cloths woven together. Each cloth is brought on the face for figuring as required. Turkish - These are hand made. The pile is put into the ground warp by hand as tufts and knotted round them according to pattern. There are two picks of ground weft between each row of pile. Tapestry - Carpets woven from printed warps. The pile is cut or left uncut as required for the design. Persian - Carpets similar to Turkish, being hand made. See also Axminster, Brussels, Kidderminster, Persian Tapestry, Turkish, Wilton Carpets, Body Brussels, Brusselette, Ingrain. -
15 Double Scale Harness
This is a harness in which the couplings are attached to the neck cords in pairs. These couplings are provided with mails and the couplings are knotted about 8-in. or 9-in. above the mails. Thin, flat metal staves are inserted through each row of couplings in the knotted loops, and the staves are operated by separate hooks at the sides of the machine. By this means, a pattern of twice the width can be woven. Thus a pattern on 800 ends can be woven by a 400's machine. The cards are cut only for figure, the ground being operated by side hooks and staves.Dictionary of the English textile terms > Double Scale Harness
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16 Lee, Revd William
SUBJECT AREA: Textiles[br]d. c. 1615[br]English inventor of the first knitting machine, called the stocking frame.[br]It would seem that most of the stories about Lee's invention of the stocking frame cannot be verified by any contemporary evidence, and the first written accounts do not appear until the second half of the seventeenth century. The claim that he was Master of Arts from St John's College, Cambridge, was first made in 1607 but cannot be checked because the records have not survived. The date for the invention of the knitting machine as being 1589 was made at the same time, but again there is no supporting evidence. There is no evidence that Lee was Vicar of Calverton, nor that he was in Holy Orders at all. Likewise there is no evidence for the existence of the woman, whether she was girlfriend, fiancée or wife, who is said to have inspired the invention, and claims regarding the involvement of Queen Elizabeth I and her refusal to grant a patent because the stockings were wool and not silk are also without contemporary foundation. Yet the first known reference shows that Lee was the inventor of the knitting machine, for the partnership agreement between him and George Brooke dated 6 June 1600 states that "William Lee hath invented a very speedy manner of making works usually wrought by knitting needles as stockings, waistcoats and such like". This agreement was to last for twenty-two years, but terminated prematurely when Brooke was executed for high treason in 1603. Lee continued to try and exploit his invention, for in 1605 he described himself as "Master of Arts" when he petitioned the Court of Aldermen of the City of London as the first inventor of an engine to make silk stockings. In 1609 the Weavers' Company of London recorded Lee as "a weaver of silk stockings by engine". These petitions suggest that he was having difficulty in establishing his invention, which may be why in 1612 there is a record of him in Rouen, France, where he hoped to have better fortune. If he had been invited there by Henry IV, his hopes were dashed by the assassination of the king soon afterwards. He was to supply four knitting machines, and there is further evidence that he was in France in 1615, but it is thought that he died in that country soon afterwards.The machine Lee invented was probably the most complex of its day, partly because the need to use silk meant that the needles were very fine. Henson (1970) in 1831 took five pages in his book to describe knitting on a stocking frame which had over 2,066 pieces. To knit a row of stitches took eleven separate stages, and great care and watchfulness were required to ensure that all the loops were equal and regular. This shows how complex the machines were and points to Lee's great achievement in actually making one. The basic principles of its operation remained unaltered throughout its extraordinarily long life, and a few still remained in use commercially in the early 1990s.[br]Further ReadingJ.T.Millington and S.D.Chapman (eds), 1989, Four Centuries of Machine Knitting, Commemorating William Lee's Invention of the Stocking Frame in 1589, Leicester (N.Harte examines the surviving evidence for the life of William Lee and this must be considered as the most up-to-date biographical information).Dictionary of National Biography (this contains only the old stories).Earlier important books covering Lee's life and invention are G.Henson, 1970, History of the Framework Knitters, reprint, Newton Abbot (orig. pub. 1831); and W.Felkin, 1967, History of the Machine-wrought Hosiery and Lace Manufactures, reprint, Newton Abbot (orig. pub. 1867).M.Palmer, 1984, Framework Knitting, Aylesbury (a simple account of the mechanism of the stocking frame).R.L.Hills, "William Lee and his knitting machine", Journal of the Textile Institute 80(2) (a more detailed account).M.Grass and A.Grass, 1967, Stockings for a Queen. The Life of William Lee, the Elizabethan Inventor, London.RLH -
17 Townsend, Matthew
SUBJECT AREA: Textiles[br]b. Leicester (?), Englandd. after 1867 USA[br]English inventor of the latch needle for making seamless hose, and developer of ribbed knitting on circular machines.[br]Townsend, who described himself in his first patent as a framework knitter and afterwards as a hosier of Leicester, took out a patent in 1847 for the application of a "machine like that of a point net frame to an ordinary stocking-frame". He described needles and hooks of a peculiar shape which were able to take the work off the knitting machine, reverse the loops and return them again so that ribbed knitting could be made on circular machines. These became popular for knitting stockings which, although not fully fashioned, had sufficient strength to fit the leg. In 1854 he took out a patent for making round hose with heels and toes fashioned on other machines. In yet another patent, in 1856, he described a method of raising looped pile on knitted fabrics for making "terry" towelling fabrics. He could use different coloured yarns in the fabric that were controlled by a Jacquard mechanism. It was in the same year, 1856, in a further patent that he described his tumbler or latch needles as well as the making of figured patterns in knitting on both sides of the fabric with a Jacquard mechanism. The latch needles were self-acting, being made to move up and down or backwards and forwards by the action of cams set in the cylindrical body of the machine. Normally the needle worked in a vertical or inclined position with the previous loop on the shank below the latch. Weft yarn was placed in the hook of the needle. The needle was drawn down between fixed plates which formed a new loop with the weft. At the same time, the original loop already on the shank of the needle moved along the shank and closed the latch so that it could pass over the newly formed loop in the needle hook and fall over the end of the needle incorporating the new loop on its way to make the next row of stitches. The latch needle obviated the need for loop wheels and pressers and thus simplified the knitting mechanism. Townsend's invention was the forerunner of an entirely new generation of knitting machines, but it was many years before its full potential was realized, the bearded needle of William Lee being preferred because the hinge of the latch could not be made as fine as the bearded needle.Townsend was in the first rank of skilful manufacturers of fancy Leicester hosiery and had a good practical knowledge of the machinery used in his trade. Having patented his needles, he seems not to have succeeded in getting them into very profitable or extensive use, possibly because he fixed the royalty too high. His invention proved to be most useful and profitable in the hands of others, for it gave great impetus to the trade in seamless hose. For various reasons he discontinued his business in Leicester. He emigrated to the USA, where, after some initial setbacks, he began to reap the rewards of his skill.[br]Bibliography1847, British patent no. 11,899 (knitting machine). 1854, British patent no. 1,523 (seamless hose).1856, British patent no. 1,157 ("terry" towelling fabrics).1856, British patent no. 1,858 (latch needles and double-sided patterns on fabrics).Further ReadingF.A.Wells, 1935, The British Hosiery and Knitwear Industry, London (mentions Townsend briefly).W.Felkin, 1967, History of the Machine-wrought Hosiery and Lace Manufactures, reprint, Newton Abbot (orig. pub. 1867) (a better account of Townsend).RLH
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